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L30/11/329/27
Title
Extract of a letter from Elizabeth Yorke , Lady Hardwicke to Mrs Yorke. Description of a tour of parts of Ireland. [Typed transcript available].
Date free text
1802
Production date
From: 1802 To: 1802
Scope and Content
Set out on tour to the south on Monday 30th August. The party included Lord & Lady Hardwicke accompanied by Sir Edward Littlehales, Colonel Gore, ladies M Fordyce and Agneta Yorke, Lord Royston and Lord Lindsay, as well as servants. Describes the uniform and livery. First stop was Harristown, the seat of John La Touche. Set out next morning, stopping at Ballitore; a little Inn kept by a Quaker. Found troops under arms everywhere. Nass was very full of people. The property all round is the Duke of Leinster’s. Description of the scenery; drive to Mount Juliet, [seat of Henry Thomas Butler, 2nd Earl of Carrick], passing the ruin of Castle Dermot and round towers known as Danes (or Deans) Beacons. Mention of protestant churches needing repair. Met Lord Waterford [Henry de La Poer Beresford, 2nd Marquis of Waterford] at Mount Juliet; he is to accompany the party to Curraghmore. [the seat of the Marquess of Waterford] The following day Lord Hardwicke went to Kilkenny and received an address. Suspect that Lord Ormond has gone to England, rather than receive the party at his castle, which would be usual when the Lord Lieutenant went on a progress [Walter Butler, 1st Marquess of Ormonde]. He ordered his borough to address and his servants to prepare a collation, and they did very well without him. Proceeded and stopped at Castle Morris, and thence to Curraghmore. Well received at Carrick on Suir. The entry to Curraghmore is rather disappointing ; ‘the entry is thro’ iron gates up a sort of wide street of handsome offices, the house occupying the further end; in the inside it is modern, handsome and convenient.’ The scenery was beautiful but the writer too unwell to walk, but drove round part of the extensive grounds. Receiving the Lord Lieutenant was painful at first to Lady Waterford; it was the first party since the late Marquis’s death. She had invited the Carricks, so with their own family it was a very numerous party. Went one day to Waterford; an address was presented for the town and from the county by a Mr Paliser, who has a bad stutter. A royal discharge of 21 guns broke the windows of several inhabitants. There was a ball at Curraghmore the evening before departure; Viscount Royston danced all evening with Lady Isabella, the eldest daughter. Proceeded to Clonmel, where there was a review and General Payne and the military. Next stop was at Knocklofty [seat of Richard Hely Hely-Hutchinson, 1st Earl of Donoughmore]. Mention of Colonel [William] Bagwell, where breakfast was served; handsome fruits and magnificent china. From Knocklofty, proceeded to Castle Martyr, the seat of the Earl of Shannon [Richard Boyle, 2nd Earl of Shannon]; breakfasted at Fermoy with a Mr [John] Anderson – describes how Anderson has developed the town of Fermoy. Castle Martyris reckoned a fine place, muck reminds the writer of Wrest. Comment that Lord Shannon was one of the few who voted for the Union on true patriotic principles, Above 18 seats in Parliament were at his command. From Lord Shannon’s it was settled that Lord Hardwicke should go on Captain Gardener’s frigate. The Princess Charlotte, at Cork to visit forts and islands. Lady Shannon [Catherine] and the writer preferred visiting Lord & Lady Longueville at Castle Mury. Lord Hardwicke had a trip on the Custom House boat; it was overloaded and a violent squall came up; creating considerable danger for a few minutes, but they got back safely, though some felt rather seasick. Daughters Anne and Margaret were taken by Lord Longueville in a jaunting car to a beauty spot and there was a violent shower of rain. Called at the Bishop of Cloyne’s; one of the strange round towers called the Devil’s Needle rises from his shrubbery. From Castle Martyr the party set out for Cork, having called at Middleton, the residence of the Archbishop of Cashel [Charles Brodrick]. At 4 miles from Cork, the party were met by the Sheriffs, who then preceded the carriage, as did General Myers and the officers of the staff . The streets were lined with soldiers. The crowds were numerous. The Lord Lieutenant dined with the mayor and corporation. Description of a ball at Myers, including the clothing; the writer wore the diamond tiara and the rest of her jewels. The following day Lord Hardwicke went round many establishments and manufactories, some for information, others for civility. He learned how to cut up a bullock, skin it, divide it and salt it in three minutes. ‘When any sudden order come in for salt provisions, the scene is horrid to the greatest degree, tho’ conducted with wonderful cleverness. The men are paid immense wages and after the period of their work live in wretchedness and vice, the fatigue is sometimes very great and should they be ill, their mode of cure is as horrid and savage. They cut open the animal, and extend themselves in the reeking entrails, covering themselves over with the skin. This was told to me by the Mayor with his gold chain, therefore must be true.’ The next day was an oratorio and some ladies sung, as it was for charity, and afterwards a review. Afterwards, Lord Hardwicke dined with the Merchants. The party left Cork the next day; the writer very fatigued in body and spirits; ‘Lord Hardwicke seemed to thrive upon it, he has got a Vice Regal Patent never to be fatigued.’ Proceeded to Bandon [Brandonbridge]. Lord Donoghmore accompanied them part of the way, but dare not enter the town, as his family had once been Catholics. The town is so zealous that on its gates it gives invitations to Turks, Jews and athiests, but forbids pipers and Papists to enter. Lord Brandon [Francis Bernard, 1st Earl of Bandon] married the only daughter of Lord Shannon [Catherine Henrietta Boyle]. They live a very retired life. They have a large family. The new house [Castle Bernard] was inhabited by the party for the first time, the old building being still in use, but a colonnade had been made to connect the two for the occasion. After dinner there was a fine concert and large company. Lord Hardwicke received an Address and the Freedom of the Ancient and Loyal City of Brandon. Left Brandon the following morning ‘I am convinced we have left the seeds of rebellion in the house, from Lord Bernard down to the baby.’ Breakfasted at Macroon at Mrs O’Donnels, a rich young widow of 22. From there were accompanied by a friend of Mrs O’Donnel for part of the journey. Comments on the state of the road – one hill was of a very great length and all but impassable from its steepness and ruggedness. A party of Dragoons who had accompanied the party from Cork were of some use steadying the carriages. It was nearly dark when they arrived at Killarney, and dinner not till after 10 o’clock. ‘Lady Kenmare [Mary Browne, wife of Valentine Browne, 1st Earl of Kenmare] had been a beautiful woman, she is still handsome, her figure is become bad altho’ she preserves a most graceful walk and is a sort of Goddess. Lord Kenmare is blind and deaf, and speaks unintelligibly, is set down as stupid, which do not think he is, and he is extremely well bred without formality.’ Describes the party at Lord Kenmare’s - Mention of Lord Kenmare’s sister, an emigrant colonel of the Swiss Guards, the family priest, a daughter of Lady Kenmare, Lady Kenmare’s brother, a quantity of dogs and a never ceasing parrot. Reference to Captain Gardiner proposing to bring an 18 pound gun to set off on the lake to hear the echo from the surrounding mountains. Gardiner is in love with Miss O’Donaghee. Describes boat trip on the lake, scenery etc. On one of the islands was the remains of a cottage, until recently inhabited by a man named Rhonan; he had an income of £1,500 per annum, but preferred to live on the island, avoiding all society. He recently left his retreat in disgust that a house was going to be built. It was near 8 o’clock when they returned from the boat trip, and a dinner and ball was planned for the evening. The writer was too fatigued to appear, or to attempt the stag hunt the next day. The stay at Kenmare House [on the east shore of Lough Leane, Killarney] included a Sunday. Lord Kenmare made matters easy by ordering Mass, usually said at 11 o’clock, to be at 9 o’clock in his own chapel; ‘we might either have service read, or go to the parish church. Lord Hardwicke chose to go publicly, and attended the parish church. The congregation was chiefly the military and a few protestant families. Long description of the journey of the 18 pound gun to the lake, including a storm, and rescuing a gentleman and two ladies from a small boat at Innisfallen. ‘I will only say that the effect was little more than the Blunderbuss usually fired to let strangers hear the fine rolling thunder repeated from every mountain.’ Mention of various legends concerning O’Donoghoe. The party left Killarney; gave up the intention of visiting Lady Clare and went to Mallow, to the house of Mr Woodward who married one of the Miss Bathoes, where they stayed one night. The night after slept at Fermoy; the Master was away, but were received by Mrs Anderson. Next stop was at Knocklofty, where there was a large party staying, and it was much enjoyed by the writer. Lady Carrick hosted a large ball, ‘Lords Royston and Lindsay with Lady Anne made a pretty addition to the dancers. The writer thought it proper to accept an invitation to go to the Kilkenny play acted by gentlemen, which was enjoyable. After the play, Royston set out for Dublin; in two days all returned to Phoenix Park.
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