L30/14/370/7

From Henry Swinburne, Naples to 2nd Baron Grantham:

21 Jan 1777

From: 1777 To: 1777

Guilt at not writing sooner of his arrival. Prince & Princess's Jacci & Francavilla very polite. Haven't yet seen others for whom they had letters. Mrs. Swinburne gone to be presented to Queen by the Francavilla. Haven't seen so much of Jacci as she is "encore une femmia pretension" a condition rendering women much constrained in behaviour to other women. Prince Jacci "the best sort of little man in the world" currently in bed with cold. Dined with him & Sir Thomas at Casesta the day they were presented. Obliged to Duke of Losada for his efficacious letters, procuring friendly reception and "a kind of separation in the Ideas of the Peoples of the Country from the Johntrol herd of Viaggiatori Inglesi". Obliged to Portuguese Minister de Sa_ for introduction at Court as no Envoy, Charge_ d'Affairs or Consul there presently. Lord Tilney very attentive to their entertainment. Has a good house, spends a good deal of money in it. The Nobilta_ very happy to receive any visitors he takes to them. Entertainment includes fiddle music, cards and Rinfresco's. People there: Lord John Clinton, Lord Dalrymple, Mr. Murray, Lady Catherine & Miss Murray, Mr. & Mrs. Alexander (a Nabob), Messrs. Haughton James, B. Balderston (one of Fountain's heirs), Dilon, his Governor, Saunders, Bond, Sparrow, Chase, who lives with Lord Tylney, Morant, Kinlock an American, Brown, Molyneux, Rutherford & Atkinson. Have had one Cocagna, some Gala days, "Opera by a very bad Composer, Fischietti & the dancing horrible to any but the Military...in the first Ballet of the Conquest of Dehli by Thomas Kouli Kan the Audience is entertained with some hundreds of Musquets discharged by the two contending Armies which make a glorious noise & leaves the house in smoke for an hour afterwards". No Balls at Theatre and as the Queen is with child only great one at Palace with four private ones for him [Swinburne] at particular houses, with a grand Cavalcade of Masks by the Nobility. Will look about Country after Carnival, wants whole and long days when beginning to follow Ciceroni [guide]. Went to see new Lava [Vesuvius] it stopped before he could see it but still very hot. It came down behind the Camaldoli of Sant Angelo, a woody hill beyond Torre del Greco. Vines and an old Chapel all that was damaged. Details of sea journey from Marseilles, via Cape of Corsica, landing on Elba. Saw famous Oron Mines and Mountain of Ore. Iron ore quarried there. Picked up rock specimens, good beginning of a Cabinet if it could be afforded. Sailed off through Channel of Pimbino then to Porto Longone. Describes view, Piombino backed by Apennines, two rocks with Castles in the Straights, the Islands of Giglio & Monte Christo, Cape Argentat on horizon to south. Other side; high lands of Elba, distant mountains of Corsica & behind Capraia, Gorgora [Gorgona?] & Tuscan hills etc.... Walked to Calamita, near Longone, a mine of loadstone, said to disorder compass from miles around island. Sea journey past Cape Argentat & Island of Giannuti, avoided Roman coast. Doubled Cape Cirulli, anchored at Providan, then spent next day beating about Bay of Puzzuoli, saw Vesuvius flaming out. Lodgings on the Chiaia, Naples. Sir Thomas & Mrs. Swinburne send respects. Supposes Mr. Waddilove has not completed his Tour. Swinburne's directions to Messrs. Hart and Wilkens; Banquiers. Granada Moorish antiquities to be engraved by Tilliard in Paris and some from Cordova, as a trial, given to Carlo Noli, a good artist. His latest work is the Triumphal Arch of Benevento raised in honour to Trajan, "masterly piece of Architectonic engraving". Gratitude to Duke of Losada for introductions in Italy.

item

Tilney,
Clinton, John,
Dalrymple,
Murray,
James,
Balderston,
Dilon,
Saunders,
Bond,
Sparrow,
Chase,
Tylney,
Morant,
Kinlock,
Brown,
Molyneux,
Rutherford,
Atkinson,
Hart,
Wilkens,
Tilliard,
Noli,
Losada

Italy, Vesuvius, Elba